Local Roots has really blossomed since moving from its rather cozy home inside the Grandin Gardens building to the old Plan 9 music store space next to the Grandin Theatre. A proponent of the increasingly popular farm-to-table concept, Local Roots has embarked on another ambitious project recently: bringing in award winning and award-nominated chefs from out of town.
The latest was Edward Lee from 610 Magnolia restaurant in Louisville, KY, another proponent of the farm to table movement, where restaurateurs deal directly with local producers of meat, vegetables and other products. Lee, the chef and co-owner of 610 Magnolia, was invited by Local Roots head chef Josh Smith.
A restaurant full of diners invited to the private six-course gourmet meal had dishes created alternatively by Lee (Rappahannock Oysters, quail egg and duck bak-kua; sweetbreads and butternut puree; lamb kalbi, green tomato kim-chi and speckled grits) and by Smith (Maine scallop, Golden trout, Dawson plum consommé and burnt orange pudding.)
There were wine pairings for each course served as well. “We’re really getting culinary talent that is unprecedented [for Roanoke],” said Melany Mullens, a public relations specialist from the firm that represents Local Roots. She called it “the best kitchen in town.”
Craig Rogers was one of the guests; the former college dean and electronics company owner now supplies lamb from his Patrick County farm to Local Roots and other businesses in Roanoke – and his Border Springs Farm lamb can be found in restaurants from New Orleans to New York. “It’s fabulous for Roanoke,” said Rogers about Local Roots and its emphasis on farm to table. “It’s really cutting a new trail.”
Rogers noted that the visiting chefs coming in monthly have all been nominated for the James Beard award given to top chefs, or have won some regional designation associated with the honor. Lee was a finalist for best chef in the South. As for Smith, who cooked for a time at 202 Market before making his way to Local Roots, Rogers said “Josh’s artistry sets him apart from most.”
Having a private audience come in to sample the goods, then perhaps go out and spread the word about Local Roots will help develop new patrons said Rogers. “It also helps Roanoke as a community – to develop a bit of a reputation. It can only raise the bar.”
Also on hand was author Elizabeth Weigand, who signed copies of The New Blue Ridge Cookbook (Globe Pequot Press), featuring recipes from the region. Rogers has a recipe for Border Springs Farm lamb meatloaf in the book. “I looked for local restaurants that served truly, truly local foods,” said Weigand in describing one source for many of the recipes, “[and] a lot of farmer’s markets.”
A beer soup recipe from Josh Smith is also in the book. The head chef said he wants to “push the food scene in Roanoke.” As the restaurant’s reputation grows he finds it “so easy” to get visiting chefs here now. “Everybody’s moving in a direction where local foods are helping to make the [product better],” noted Smith. “The hardest part is finding the right ingredients.”
Lee, who said he is “very connected to my farmers,” added that he would consider making a return visit if invited back: “what they try to do is incredible…to bring renowned chefs to a place like Roanoke. This is something special.” Lee and Smith met at a camping event Craig Rogers holds on his Patrick County farm for chefs every summer – he calls it “Lambstock.”
Diane and Bill Elliott own Local Roots; after a night spent greeting diners, Diane Elliott said their goal was also “to raise the bar for Roanoke,” regarding the farm to table movement. “It just has a better flavor,” Elliott insisted. “It’s about being real [and] about what community is.” As for the new space? “We grew up. [Its] a big leap forward.”
By Gene Marrano [email protected]